Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. Worsted spinning is generally done with the longer fibres, whereas woollen makes use of the shorter ones, which means that worsted yarns are generally denser. Thats because yarn weight is one of the key elements that affects the gauge of your knitting. You may be wondering by now if one is better than the other. It also means woolen-spun yarns are warmer than their worsted counterparts as these air pockets help hold body heat. Want a refresher on the difference between worsted-spun and woolen spun yarns? This was the clearest explanation regarding the what, why, and how of woolen vs. worsted spun I have come across. See, what I didnt understand at the time was the fine art of yarn substitution. Its more precise than the yarns weight category of fingering, DK, bulky, etc. Also receive daily new post notifications, Superfun Giveaway: Celebrate BIPOC Designers, https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/, https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember#:~:text=A%20woollen%20spun%20yarn%20will,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. In most cases, semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns could often be confused for the same thing. Many commercial yarns are spun in this way, particularly sock yarns. All Rights Reserved. KitILove The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. An alternative to spinning top worsted is to spin it semi worsted. Dyed: United States. Try Ravelry and yarnsub.com, or phone the manufacturer (or ask your LYS owner to). The main differences between woolen and worsted spinning are the direction that the fibers are running in the yarn and the compactness of the resulting yarn. Ive wondered lately why some yarn I loved in my LYS seemed perfect, but when swatched, especially in garter stitch, looked so shiny, something I didnt want. December 2013 The twist brings air with it, and the surface isnt controlled by smoothing as it hits the fiber. Worsted-spun knitted fabrics are super-soft, incredibly versatile knits that are used for baby clothes, underwear, t-shirts and sportswear, leggings, dresses and other light-weight knitwear. November 2020 Designers chose yarns, in part, based on the fiber content, knowing that fiber content will affect the appearance of the garment. The result of this woolen-style preparation and spinning is a yarn that retains the lofty, air-trapping qualities it had before spinning. Worsted yarns are smooth and dense, they tend to drape well and be much more lustrous. Flywheel is light and airy and lends itself well to both lace projects and warm, cozy sweaters. Worsted Yarn. What is Worsted Wool? Think in terms of shopping at a fiber show. When spinning the fiber the long draw or medium draw technique is used to allow the fiber to wrap upon itself while . Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. April 2021 . Customer accounts enabled in your Store Admin. Yarn and fiber folks have an extensive vocabulary for many things, but we are really stuck on the word worsted. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc. May 2017 The best ways to get in touch with me are by messaging me on Ravelry or by sending an email to abeeinthebonnet (at) gmail (dot) com. For example, if they just list an email address for pattern inquiries, dont message them on every social media platform where you can find them, too. 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I have been looking for something to help determine how best to substitute yarn. At Brooklyn Tweed, we employtwo basic spinning methods that occupy either end of this broad spectrum of possibility: woolen-spinning and worsted-spinning. Ok, first up lets look at how the fibres are running in to the yarn. Spinningwithapurpose Single-ply yarns are, to put it mildly, gloriously soft. Jillian Moreno spins, knits and weaves just so she can touch all of the fibers. All of my Maine-spun yarns unlike typical worsted-spun yarns are low-twist, very soft, a little fuzzy, and apt to pill to some degree. April 2017 I have noticed that in even acrylic yarns, worsted is not the same. May 2016 Sometimes, those individual strings are then twisted together to form a stronger, denser yarn. To aid you in making an informed choice when choosing between woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarns for your future projects, below is a general guide to the kinds of fabrics you can achieve with either kind. The distinctions between these has been a mystery to me until now. Thank you for this insightful article. January 2015 If youre making socks or colorwork, though, or working on a project that requires clear stitch definition, you should pay extra attention to how your yarn is spun. This was a grat posting. I did not know this was the difference in certain types of yarn. May 2021 *Membership cannot be purchased with Gift Cards. If you ever created your own cord or unwound a hank of yarn, then that's the exact same process. That means theyre good for colorwork and lace projects where you really want your stitches to pop. Top: Worsted spun shows more stitch definition Bottom: Woolen spun soft bouncy yarn without stitch definition Like cousins, woolen and worsted yarns have the same genetic profile, but look and act completely different from one another. You are the Rachel Maddow of yarn, delving in at a granular level, exploring every detail, and explaining it all with an engaging writing style drenched in clarity. To produce our heathered colors, the scoured fleece is then dyed in a range of intensely saturated base solids, which are then blended together during the spinning process using percentages of the base colors unique to each colorway. Thanks. January 2022 Closed Saturdays, Sundays and US Holidays, 2015- 2023 Lunatic Fringe Yarns - All Rights Reserved So how do you spin yarn to be either worsted or woolen? Its knit using one strand of fingering-weight wool yarn and one strand of lace-weight silk-mohair yarn. The Windham is more uniform and sleek looking even with the inherent visual softness of the Merino fiber. That is woolen drafting. At the roping stage, the fibers are of irregular lengths, jumbled and nestled together in every which way. I think Ill need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. It had a lacy yoke, short sleeves, and a bit of swing at the hem. If Im knitting a Fair Isle sweater and want it to be warm and have colors that are little blurred at the edges to blend well with each other. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. Woollen spun woven fabrics are thicker and heavier and used mostly for outerwear. Your explanation is great, and reaffirms my decision to purchase your Yarnitecture book awhile back. The simple, pure honesty of her yarns, paired with a buttery softness and delicate texture, enchanted me. September 2013 Going to send people to this. December 2022 May 2015 Any suggestions? As modern spinners we can now get some much smaller and lighter combs, but combing is still a real physical workout. The worsted yarn spinner uses wool fibres which have been combed and are of a certain length, that is, about 2 inches or more. Worsted yarns contrast with woollen yarns, which are carded rather than combed and fuzzier than worsted yarns. 'Carding' is one of the processes which untangles the woo. Pilling should not be conflated with the characteristic bloom of woolen spun yarns. Before beginning the process of spinning our woolen-spun yarns, the fiber is first cleaned and then dyed in the fleece. Thank you so very much for the enlightening article and all the examples. This yarn delivers on every account. It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. Are they going in parallel or perpendicular? is traditionally spun from carded rolags (this was the job small children carried out). You also need to consider WPI. So good! Any amount of twist, be it a lot or a little, is essential for creating knittable yarn. The Empire (on the right) is less consistent, and looks a little puffier. On the other hand, the woolen fabrics hold creases and shape well and are more durable. Between those extremes, you can make infinite yarn combining elements from along the woolen/worsted continuum. Woolen and Worsted yarns. This carded wool from the initial fiber preparation is prepared further in a worsted-style through combing. And I really appreciate the swatches. Generally speaking, plant-based materials will be heavier than animal fibers. The Clun Forest yarn is lofty and warm, hand-dyed in variegated and solid colorways, and also offered in undyed white. When this "worsted spun" yarn is woven it produces fabric with these qualities unlike the more common woolen-spun wool yarns available to handweavers. The sweater turned out too big and too heavy, so it drooped until it hung from my shoulders like a circular tablecloth with a hole in the middle. Whats more, the acrylic content made it much lighter and softer than many other 100% cotton yarns. Worsted style spinning got me 183 yds from 4 oz. Yarnsub is a great resource for substituting yarns from larger companies! Best article Ive read on this subject, and Ive been looking for a clear one for about a year. Another very important factor is the ply. This video of a Navajo Weaver has long been a favourite of mine. Appreciate the info. Trust me, they r super different in thickness. If you can use Ravelry, the project pages are very helpful. . There are all sorts of reasons you might want to use a yarn thats different from what the designer recommends. January 2021 Its an old method too and goes well with fiber that has been prepared for spinning by hand. UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? (Theres a method to this madness, we promise!). Thank you, youre a great explainer. Can you spot the other difference? Copyright 2023 A Bee In The Bonnet | Bamboo on Trellis Framework by Mediavine, This site uses cookies to improve its performance and to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. Great article and most helpful. This means it offers remarkable warmth and lightness and is adaptable in gauge, able to compress to a denser fabric on small needles or bloom to cohere as a gauzy fabric when worked on large needles. No twist enters the fiber by itself. There is a lot of technical information about the differences between woolen spun and worsted spun yarn, which you can read about here on the MDK blog.
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